Pizza  /  Fire  /  Neighborhoods  /  History Brooklyn, New York

Section 01

Pizza

The craft end of it: what separates one pie from another, why a long ferment is not patience for its own sake, and the very short list of things that actually go on top.

Explainer

The Brooklyn pie, explained

Slice, Neapolitan, Sicilian, grandma, bar pie. What physically separates them, and why arguing about which is best is a category error.

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The Dough

Wild yeast cultured off the skin of a local apple, three days in the cold, and a rim that puffs before it burns. The least visible part of a pizza does most of the work.

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The Ingredients

A Margherita has four things on it. That is the whole difficulty — and the reason the grana and the oil go on after the ninety seconds, not before.